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CHAPTER VIII.
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FANCY NEEDLEWORK.
INSTRUCTIONS IN EMBROIDERY.
Embroidery with Silk.—The materials used as foundations, are various,
embracing silk, satin, cloth, and velvet; and the silk employed in
working is purse silk, deckers, half twist, and floss; but floss is most
in request.
Embroidery should always be worked in a frame, as it cannot be done well
on the hand, except in very small pieces. The same careful attention to
shades, before recommended, is necessary here; for small flowers two or
three shades are sufficient; but in roses and others, that are large,
five shades are in general required; the darker shades should be worked
into the centre of the flower, (and it is often advisable to work them
in French knots,)[79-*] and thence proceed with the lighter, until you
come to the lightest, which forms the outline. The pattern must be
correctly drawn upon the material, and in working leaves you must begin
with the points, working in the lighter shades first, and veining with a
shade more dark: you may soften the blending, by working each shade up,
between the stitches of the preceding shade. Three,[80] or at most four
shades, are sufficient for the leaves: the introduction of more would
injure the effect.
Chenille Embroidery.—Is very beautiful for screens, &c., but must not
be used for any work that is liable to pressure. Choose a needle as
large as can be conveniently used, and be careful not to have the
lengths of chenille too long, as it is apt to get rough in the working.
For flowers, it is necessary that the shades should not be too near. The
chenille must pass through the material freely, so as not to draw it. It
looks well done in velvet, with occasional introductions of gold and
silver thread.
Raised Embroidery.—Draw the pattern on the material as before. Work the
flowers, &c., to the height required, in soft cotton, taking care that
the centre is much higher than the edges. A careful study of nature is
indispensable to the attainment of excellence in this kind of work.
Pursue the same method with your colors, as in flat embroidery, only
working them much closer. The most striking effect is produced when the
flowers or animals are raised, and leaves in flat embroidery. Much in
this, as in every department of this charming art, must depend upon the
taste and judgment—correct or otherwise—of the fair artist. A servile
copyist will never attain to excellence.
Embroidery in Wool.—This is proper for any large piece of work. The
rules for shading embroidery with silk apply here; only the work must
not be quite so thick on the material; care must also be taken to bring
the wool through on the right side, as near as possible to where it
passes through, in order that none may appear on the wrong side, which
would occasion much trouble in drawing it, even when removed from the
frame. When finished, and while in the frame, it will be proper to damp
the back with a little isinglass water, and press with a warm iron on[81]
the wrong side. This kind of work is appropriate for the ornamenting of
various articles of dress, on which, when judiciously placed, it has a
pleasing effect.
Patterns.—This is a part of fancy needlework to which too much
attention cannot be paid, but it is one much neglected. We want to see
native genius developed, and we are convinced that many a fair one could
increase our stock of patterns, with new and surprising conceptions, if
she could but be induced to make the trial. To draw patterns for
embroidery or braid work, get a piece of cartridge paper, and having
drawn out the design, trace it off upon tissue paper, or which is
better, a tracing paper, properly prepared; after which you will find it
easy to pierce it through with a piercer, taking care not to run one
hole into another. Lay the paper so prepared upon the material which you
intend to work, and dust it with a pounce bag, so that the powder may go
through the holes; the paper must then be carefully removed, and if the
material be dark, take a camel’s hair pencil, and paint the marks with a
mixture of white lead and gum water; or if you prefer it, you can trace
the marks left by the pounce, with a black-lead pencil, but the other
methods are preferable. A little practice and perseverance will enable
you to became tolerably proficient in this department, and confer upon
you the further advantage of aiding you in acquiring those habits of
untiring diligence, which are so essential to the attainment of any
object. Ever recollect, that anything worth doing at all, is worth doing
well.
[79-*] This applies especially to the working of dahlias: begin
with the centre knot and work round it as many as are required.
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