Chapter 12
Shawls
Knitted Fringe
- This may be made of any sized wool or cotton, according to the purpose for which it is required; it may also be spaced with two or more colours, working alternately six rows in each.
- Cast on eight stitches.
- Knit two; bring the wool forward, knit two together; knit one; bring the wool forward, knit two together; knit one.
- When a sufficient number of rows are knitted to form the length of fringe desired,—
- Cast off five stitches, leaving three to unravel for the fringe.
- With four-thread fleecy, No. 10 needles may be used.
Vandyke Border
- This border is generally knitted in cotton, and may be used for muslin curtains, for knitted or netted fish napkins, and for “tidies” for the backs of chairs, or ends of sofas.
- Cast on seven stitches, on No. 17 needles.
- First and second rows—plain knitting.
- Third row—slip one; knit two; turn over, knit two together; turn over twice, knit two together.
- Fourth row—bring the thread forward, knit two; pearl one; knit two; turn over, knit two together; knit one.
- Fifth row—slip one; knit two; turn over, knit two together; knit four.
- Sixth row—knit six; turn over, knit two together; knit one.
- Seventh row—slip one; knit two; turn over, knit two together; turn over twice, knit two together; turn over twice, knit two together.
- Eighth row—knit two; pearl one; knit two; pearl one; knit two; turn over, knit two together; knit one.
- Ninth row—slip one; knit two; turn over, knit two together; turn over twice, knit two together; turn over twice, knit two together; turn over twice, knit two together.
- Tenth row—knit two; pearl one; knit two; pearl one; knit two; pearl one; knit two; turn over, knit two together; knit one.
- Eleventh row—slip one; knit two; turn over, knit two together; knit nine.
- Twelfth row—cast off all but seven; knit four; turn over, knit two together; knit one.
- This finishes the first vandyke.—Commence again, as at third row.
A warm Half-square Shawl
Four-thread fleecy, or eight-thread Zephyr fleecy, of two colours, say rose and white.—No. 8 needles.
Cast on one stitch, rose colour, and increase at the beginning of every other row, until there are ten stitches on the needle. In the next row—knit seven stitches for the border, which is throughout in plain knitting; join on the white wool, and pearl three, increasing on the last stitch.
- In the next row—bring the wool forward, slip one; knit two, pass the slipped stitch over them; knit the remaining white stitch plain; knit the seven stitches for the border, twisting the two colours in the changing of them.
- In the next row—knit the seven stitches for the border; pearl the white, increasing at the end as before.
- Repeat the two last rows, which comprise the whole pattern, until the shawl is of the required size, and finish with the plain knitted border, to correspond with the other side.
- N.B. In the fancy row of the white, when uneven stitches occur at the end of the row, they are to be knitted plain.
A warm Double Knitted Scarf, in Two Colours
- Cast on thirty-six stitches in blue six-thread fleecy.—No. 2 needles.
- First row—bring the wool forward, slip one; pass the wool back, knit one, turning the wool twice round the needle.—Repeat to the end of the row.
- Each succeeding row is the same, observing that the knit-stitch always comes over the slip-stitch.
- It will require seven rows of blue, seven of white, seven of blue, thirty-eight of white, seven of blue, seven of white, and seven of blue.
- Cast off and draw up the ends. Finish with blue and white tassels.
A Border for a Shawl or Quilt
- This border should be knitted separate, with the same sized needles and wool as the shawl or quilt, and afterwards sewn on.
- Cast on any even number of stitches.
- First row—Bring the wool forward, knit two together.
- Second row—plain knitting.
- Repeat these two rows alternately.
Raised Knitting for a Shawl
- Two No. 19 and one No. 13 needles should be used.
- Cast on any even number of stitches, that may be required, with German wool.
- First row—with the small needle, alternately make one stitch, and knit two stitches together.
- Second row—plain knitting, with large needle.
- Third row—plain knitting, with small needle.
- Fourth row—pearl knitting, with small needle.
- Repeat, from the first row.
This kind of knitting is also well adapted for hoods, muffs, cuffs, etc. It is very pretty for a shawl in stripes,—knitting three patterns alternately of each colour. For a shawl, one yard and a half square, about three hundred and sixty stitches would be required.
A Russian Shawl, in Brioche Stitch
German wool.—No. 9 needles.
For a shawl one yard and a half square, about three hundred and sixty stitches will be required.—Five shades each, of two different colours, turned back, with the lightest in the centre, knitting two rows of each shade, look very well.—The following are good colours,—scarlet and stone colour,—blue and brown,—lilac and red brown,—lilac and white.
The Brioche-stitch is simply—bring the wool forward, slip one; knit two together.
A light Stitch for a Shawl
Three-thread fleecy.—No. 10 needles.
Cast on any even number of stitches.—Bring the wool forward, knit two together, alternately, to the end of the row. Every row is the same.

Star Pattern Shawl, in Two Colours
- Cast on four stitches in blue Zephyr wool, or four-thread fleecy.—No. 6 needles.
- First row—bring the wool forward, knit one,—(these two stitches form the increase, and therefore are not to be repeated); bring the wool forward, slip one; knit two, pass the slip-stitch over them.—Repeat the same to the end of the row.
- Second row—pearl knitting in claret.
- Third row—the same as first,—in blue.
- Fourth row—the same as second,—in claret.
- Repeat these rows alternately, in blue and claret, until there are one hundred and eighty stitches on the needle; cast off, and finish with a netted fringe.
- As the increasing adds an irregular stitch, some rows will have one, and others two knitted stitches, at their commencement.
Barège Knitting for Shawls
- Commence with any number of stitches that may be divided by three.—No. 4 needles, finest Lady Betty’s wool.—Knit one plain row.
- Second row—bring the wool forward, knit three; bring the wool forward, knit three together, taking them off at the back.
- Third row—pearl knitting.
- Fourth row—bring the wool forward, knit three together, taking them off at the back; bring the wool forward, knit three.
- Fifth row—pearl knitting.
- Repeat from the second row.
When a pattern, in one or more colours, is to be introduced, break off the ground colour, and fasten on the colour next to be used, in the following manner.—Having made a slip knot in the end of the wool, pass it on the needle in the left hand: twist the end of the coloured wool and that of the ground, together,—knit, in plain knitting, the stitches required for the pattern, then fasten off, by making a loop, and commence again with the ground colour,—fastening on again as above. Any number of colours may thus be introduced, to form flowers or other patterns, which, however, are always to be done in plain knitting.
A Shetland Knitted Scarf
- Commence with the pattern for the border, by casting on one hundred stitches for the width of the scarf.—No. 7 needles, and four-thread embroidery, or Lady Betty’s wool.
- First row—knit two stitches together, four times; bring the wool forward, knit one, eight times; knit two stitches together, four times; pearl one.—Repeat to the end of the row.
- Second row—pearl knitting.
- Third row—plain knitting.
- Fourth row—pearl knitting.
- Repeat from the first row, until the pattern be about fourteen inches deep. Commence the centre as follows:—working one row of pearl knitting, before the pattern commences.
- First row—bring the wool forward, slip one; knit one, pass the slip stitch over it; knit one; pearl one.—Repeat to the end of the row.
- Second and following rows—repeat the first,—every row being alike.
If the wool be split, it exactly imitates the Shetland wool. In splitting, the wool will frequently break; but this is not important, as by laying the ends contrariwise, and twisting them together, a few stitches may be so knit, that the joins are not perceptible.
Both ends of the scarf are to be made alike, by reversing the knitting of the border. They may be finished with a tied, knitted, or netted fringe, of the same wool, without splitting, or of fine German wool.
Shetland Pattern for a Shawl
- This should be worked in Lady Betty’s wool, or four-thread embroidery fleecy, with No. 6 or 8 needles.
- Cast on any number of stitches that may be divided by six.
- First row—bring the wool forward, knit one; bring the wool forward, knit one;—slip one; knit two together, pass the slip-stitch over them; knit one.
- Second row—pearl knitting.
- Third row—bring the wool forward, knit three; bring the wool forward, slip one; knit two together, pass the slip-stitch over them.
- Fourth row—pearl knitting.
- Fifth row—knit one; slip one; knit two together, pass the slip-stitch over them; knit one; bring the wool forward, knit one; bring the wool forward.
- Sixth row—pearl knitting.
- Seventh row—slip one; knit two together, pass the slip-stitch over them; bring the wool forward, knit three; bring the wool forward.
- Eighth row—pearl knitting.
- N.B. There are to be two plain stitches at the beginning and end of each row, to form an edge.
Other Patterns for Shawls
With fine Shetland, or Lady Betty’s wool, and No. 10 needles, most beautiful shawls may be knitted from the Leaf and Trellis Pattern (page 36), Point Pattern (page 42), Scotch Pattern (page 44), or Lace Pattern (page 47).
Reprinted from My Knitting Book, by Miss Lambert (1843). Free for personal use. Please share a link rather than copying this page.