III Bags and Purses.
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Table of Contents
Terms Used in Knitting
Ladder Stitch Bag.
Two needles No. 12.
Cast on 50 stitches. Second row, knit and rib 2 stitches alternately;
and in the 3rd row, knit and rib the same stitches: in the 2 following
rows reverse the knitting and ribbing; continue this pattern for 12
rows, and also for 10 stitches at the beginning and end of each row, to
form a border all round. Plain knit 1 row (between the borders). In the
next row, (after the 10 stitches) knit the 2nd stitch, pulling it over
the 1st; knit the 1st; knit the[39] 4th and 3rd, 6th and 5th; continue the
same to the end of the row: every row is alike. Continue this pattern
until the bag is nearly long enough. Add a border as at first, and make
the other side to correspond. Knit or sew up the sides, and run a ribbon
round the top.
Crossed Stitch Bag.
Two needles No. 12.
Cast on 50 stitches. Knit one row with the cotton twice round the
needle, and in the next row, knit the 2nd stitch, slipping it over the
1st; knit the 1st, then the 4th and 3rd, 6th and 5th, and continue the
same to the end of the row. Begin again at the row twice round the
needle.
When you have knitted enough for the bag, cast off, and sew up the
sides.
[40]
Netted Bag.
To hold the ball when knitting.
These bags are plain netted, and the size of the foundation must of
course vary according to the size you wish to have your bag. They are
very pretty netted with very narrow ribbon in different colors. The mesh
should be rather wide; when the bag is half deep enough, net in a ring,
(either brass or whalebone), then net on until the bag is sufficiently
long.
Fringe.
Cast on 12 stitches; knit 6 stitches plain, bring the wool forward, knit
2 stitches taken together, bring the wool forward, knit 2 taken
together, bring the wool forward, knit 2 together. 2nd row, begin with
the wool forward, knit 2 stitches together, repeat this twice and knit
the remaining 6 plain; continue[41] these 2 rows until the fringe is the
length required, then cast off the 6 stitches for the head and unravel
the 6 stitches of plain knitting.
Netted Fringe.
To go round a bag.
Net 300 stitches on a mesh ½ an inch wide. Take a smaller mesh, (No.
15,) and net a row taking 3 stitches in 1. Net a plain row. Net a row,
putting the silk twice round the mesh. Net 3 rows once round the mesh.
Take a rather larger mesh and net one row, which finishes the fringe.
Cut it off of the foundation.
Scarf Fringe.
To be knitted in coarse gold colored flox silk.
Cast on 12 stitches. 1st row, bring the silk forward and knit 2 stitches
taken together,[42] knit 2 stitches, bring the silk forward and knit 2
taken together, knit 6 stitches. 2nd row, knit 8 stitches, bring the
silk forward, knit 2 taken together, knit 2 stitches, repeat these 2
rows until you have a sufficient length for the end of a scarf, cast off
6 stitches, and unravel those that were plain knitted.
Fringe.
Cast on 9 stitches; slip 1 stitch, knit 2, bring the cotton forward and
knit 2 taken together, knit 1, bring the cotton forward, knit 2 taken
together, knit the last. Every row is alike. When you have done a
sufficient length cast off 5 stitches, and leave 4 to unravel for the
fringe.
Rug Fringe.
Two knitting needles No. 11, a ball of coarse knitting cotton, and some
yarn or coarse wool are required. Cut the yarn into lengths of about two
inches.
[43]
Cast on 30 stitches with the cotton, knit 2 stitches, take 2 bits of
yarn, fold the ends together and loop them towards you, on your right
hand needle, knit a stitch; loop on the yarn after every stitch until
within 2 stitches of the end of the row, which knit. The back row is
plain knitting, being careful to knit the yarn with the stitch. Repeat
these two rows.
Carriage Rug.
Two needles No. 12, a ball of coarse cotton or fine string, and
some coarse yarn cut into lengths of about two inches.
With the ball cast on 40 stitches, and knit 1 row. Knit 1 stitch, place
1 piece of the yarn between the needles so that one end be on each side;
knit 1 stitch, pass the end of the yarn which is towards you between the
needles, knit 1 stitch, repeat the same to within 2 stitches of the end
and knit them plain; knit 1 plain row. 3rd row, knit 2 stitches before[44]
you put on the yarn, which will leave you 1 stitch at the end of the
row; this altering the yarn stitch makes the mat look thicker. When the
strip is as long as you wish the rug to be, cast off and begin another.
When the strips are sewed together and lined, this makes a very warm
mat.
Striped Purse.
Mesh No. 17; foundation 72 stitches wide.
Net 4 plain rows; net 1 row putting the silk twice round the mesh; in
the next row net the 2nd stitch first, (in netting it half turn it),
then net the 1st in the same way; repeat these stitches to the end of
the row. Net 3 plain rows. Net 1 row putting the silk twice round the
mesh, then a row netting the 2nd stitch first, and so on until the purse
is wide enough.
N.B. This purse is very pretty with only 2 small rows instead of 4, and
netted in shades of different colors.
[45]
Chequered Purse.
Mesh No. 17, and as many needles as you wish to have squares.
Net 6 stitches in pink silk backwards and forwards for 12 rows; net 6
stitches of brown silk, beginning at the distance of 6 stitches from the
pink; pass the brown silk through the loop of the pink, and when the
rows form alternate squares of pink and brown, begin with the pink over
the brown, and the brown over the pink.
Purse in Round Netting.
Mesh No. 14; a foundation 72 stitches wide.
Every row is alike. After the needle has been drawn through the stitch
(as in common netting), before pulling the stitch tight, it is passed
under that part of the silk which goes through the stitch.
[46]
Matrimony.—For a Purse.
Mesh No. 15, and a foundation of 60 or 70 stitches.
Net 1 row. 2nd row, net the 2nd stitch first then net the first, passing
the needle through the second as well as the first, to join them
together; repeat these stitches to the end of the row. 3rd row, plain
netting. 4th row, net a stitch, miss a stitch, net the next, then net
the stitch you missed, passing the needle through the last stitch, (it
will be seen that the object in netting a stitch before beginning the
pattern is to prevent the joined stitches being over each other); repeat
the 2 last stitches to the end of the row, netting the last stitch.
Another.
Begin on a foundation of 60 stitches, with a mesh No. 15. Net a row,
passing the silk[47] twice round the mesh. 2nd row, (once round the mesh,)
net the 2nd stitch first, half turning it, then net the other plain, net
the 4th, half turning it, then the 3rd plain, repeat these stitches
until the row is finished. Begin again with the 1st row.
Annet Purse.
Mesh No. 17, and foundation of 60 stitches.
Net the 1st row, passing the silk twice round the mesh every stitch. 2nd
row, pull the 1st stitch through the 2nd from the back, net it; pull
the 2nd stitch through the middle of the 1st, (taking care not to
twist it), net it; pull the 3rd through the 4th, net it; pull the 4th
through the middle of the 3rd, net it; repeat these stitches to the
end of the row. Begin again with the 1st row, netting 1 stitch plain
before beginning the pattern.
[48]
Honey-comb Purse.
On a foundation of 60 stitches. Net 1 plain row. 2nd row, pass the 2nd
stitch through the 1st, net it, (in netting it give it a twist so as to
half turn it); net the 1st; pass the 4th through the 3rd (half turning
it) and net it; net the 3rd; repeat these stitches to the end of the
row. Begin again with the first row. Next row net the 1st stitch plain
before beginning the pattern.
Another Honey-comb.
On a foundation of 60 stitches. Net 1 row passing the silk twice round
the mesh. 2nd row; put the side of the 2nd stitch which is nearest the
1st over it, draw it quite through so as to twist the 2 stitches
together, half turn and net it, net the first; repeat these stitches to
the end of the row. Next row begin again.
[49]
Netted Purse.
In two colors.
Fill 2 needles with 2 colors which contrast well. The purse should be 80
or 90 stitches wide. Fasten on both needles together and net alternate
stitches with each, reversing the colors every row. Except in this
change of color, every row is the same.
Single Diamond Netting.
On a round foundation with mesh No. 18; 80 stitches will make a
purse four inches wide.
Net 1st stitch with the silk twice round the mesh, 2nd stitch once
round, 3rd stitch twice round, 4th stitch once round, and so on
alternately. When the round is finished, (it will finish by a stitch
once round the mesh,) draw[50] out the mesh, put it in one of the long
stitches and net the round; every other stitch will be a loop stitch;
the round finishes with a loop stitch. Continue these alternate rounds
until the purse is long enough for the opening to be begun; then instead
of netting round the purse, turn back and net from side to side. The
1st stitch in the 1st row is once round the mesh, the 2nd twice, the
3rd once, the 4th twice, 5th once, &c. In the 2nd row, the first stitch
has the silk passed twice round the mesh; it is then taken at its full
length and the row continued, each alternate stitch being a loop stitch.
When the slit is long enough, (after either 14 or 16 rows,) begin to net
round again. If after 14 rows, the 1st stitch in beginning to net round
the purse will be once round the mesh.
Treble Diamond Netting.
On a round foundation of 40 stitches, and with a mesh No. 17 or 18.
Net 2 rounds plain. Begin the next round[51] by putting the silk twice
round the mesh for the 1st stitch, net 3 stitches, with the silk once
round the mesh; repeat these 4 stitches until the round is completed.
Take out the mesh and put it in again at the full length of one of the
long stitches; net the following stitch, (which will be a long one), net
the next a loop stitch, then net the 2 next close to the mesh and slip
them off: begin again with netting the long stitch, the loop stitch, the
2 close to the mesh, slip them off; repeat these 4 stitches to the end
of the round, finishing of course with 2 stitches close to the mesh.
Begin the next round with 2 stitches close to the mesh, 1 loop stitch, 1
stitch close to the mesh, (this stitch must always be slipped off the
mesh before netting the next); repeat these stitches to the end of the
round. Next round net 3 stitches close to the mesh, 1 loop stitch;
repeat these stitches to the end of the round. Begin again with the 1st
round, viz.—1 stitch with the silk twice round the mesh, 3 with the
silk once round, and proceed as directed until the purse is long enough
to begin the opening,[52] which should be begun in a round after that in
which you put the silk twice round the mesh for 1 stitch, and once round
it for 3. To make the opening: for the 1st stitch pass the silk twice
round the mesh, take it out and put it in again at the full length of
the 1st stitch, net a stitch, net a loop stitch, net 2 close to the
mesh, slip them off, &c. as directed before. When the slit is long
enough, begin to net in rounds instead of rows, taking care to make
the diamond stitches match.
Knitted Purse.
Four needles are required.
Cast on any number of stitches that will divide by 5. 1st round; bring
the silk forward knit 1 stitch, bring the silk forward slip 1 stitch,
knit 1, pull the slipped stitch over the knitted one, knit 2 taken
together, repeat this all round. 2nd round; plain knitting. 3rd round,
is the same as the 1st. 4th[53] round plain knitting. 5th round; bring the
silk forward, knit 2 stitches, bring the silk forward slip a stitch,
knit 2 taken together pull the slipped stitch over, repeat the same all
round. 6th round plain knitting. Begin again.
Stitches for Purses. No. 1.
Four needles are required.
Cast 30 stitches on each of three needles. Knit a plain round. In
beginning the next round, knit the 2nd stitch (instead of the first,)
knit the first; knit the 4th, then the 3rd, the 6th and 5th, and
continue the same until the purse is long enough.
Stitches for Purses. No. 2.
With 2 needles.
Cast on 60 or 80 stitches; bring the thread forward, slip a stitch, knit
2 stitches and pass[54] the slipped stitch over the 2 knitted ones; repeat
the same to the end of the row. Every row is alike.
Stitches for Purses. No. 3.
With 2 needles.
Cast on any number of stitches which will divide by 3; bring the silk
forward, slip a stitch, knit 2 stitches and pass the slipped stitch over
the 2 knitted; bring the silk forward slip a stitch, &c. to the end of
the row. Knit a plain row and begin again.
Stitches for Purses. No. 4.
On 2 needles.
Bring the thread forward, slip a stitch, knit 2 and pass the slipped
stitch over the 2 which are knitted, repeat the same to the end of the
row; knit a plain row. These 2 rows form the[55] pattern, but in the 3rd
row you must commence by knitting 2 stitches before beginning the
pattern, in order that the 1st of the 2 knitted stitches may come over
the hole, and for the same purpose you must begin the 6th row by
knitting 1 stitch.
This purse is very pretty knitted in 2 colors, alternately 2 rows of
each.
Stitches for Purses. No. 5.
Original:
Two needles.
Cast on the desired number of stitches. Knit 1 row taking 2 stitches
together. 2nd row, turn the thread round the needle to make a stitch,
rib a stitch, make a stitch as before, rib a stitch, &c. to the end of
the row. 3rd row, plain knitting; in the 4th row, which is ribbed when
you come to the hole, knit the stitch belonging to this and that of the
last row together, repeat the same with every hole. Begin again at the
1st row.
Update November, 2010
Chart: Stitch Pattern for Purse No. 5
Cast on in multiple of 2 stitches
Row 1: k2tog
Row 2: yo, p1
Row 3: k2
Row 4: p1, k1
[56]
Stitches for Purses. No. 6.
Two needles.
Cast on 90 stitches, slip the 1st stitch and finish the row taking 2
stitches together every time, knit the last stitch. 2nd row, slip the
1st stitch, and with the thread twice round the needle knit to the last
stitch, which is to be knitted plain. 3rd row, slip the 1st stitch, pick
up the thread which is across the hole with the left hand needle and
knit it with the next stitch (which is taken at full length) after
twinging the thread forward. Bring the thread forward again, pick up the
thread which is across the hole and knit it with the next stitch,
continue the same to the last stitch which is knitted. 4th row, slip the
1st stitch, knit the 2nd, pick up the thread which is across the hole
and knit it with the stitch which is over the hole, continue the same to
the end of the row. Begin again at the 1st row.
[57]
Stitches for Purses. No. 7.
Knit the 1st row (except the 1st and last stitches which are knitted
plain in every row) taking 2 stitches together. Knit a plain row. 3rd
row, slip a stitch, bring the silk forward, pick up the thread which is
across the hole, taking care not to twist it, and knit it with the next
stitch, continue the same to the end of the row; the 4th row is plain
knitting. Begin again at the 1st row.
Bead Netting.
Net a plain row on a foundation the desired length. 2nd row, net to
where you wish to place a bead, slip a bead close up to the last knot
and net a stitch; repeat the same wherever you wish to place a bead, and
the next row will fix these in their places.
[58]
Bead Netting,
With the bead on the knot.
Thread a bead needle with some of your netting silk; net a plain row;
net to where you wish to place a bead, thread 1 bead and slip it close
to the mesh, net the next stitch, slip the bead under the mesh close up
to the last knot, and pass your needle and netting silk through the
bead, which fixes it on the knot; repeat the same wherever you wish to
place a bead. This netting may be done either round or open.
Dice Knitting.
For a Purse.
This purse is knitted in 2 colors, it must be done with very fine
needles and 11 little balls of fine knitting silk.
[59]
Cast on 8 stitches of the 1st color and 8 of the 2nd alternately until
you have 80 stitches, using a new ball for each change of color, 2nd
row, knit the 8 stitches of the 1st color, pass that silk round the
silk of the 2nd color and bring it forward; with the 2nd colored silk
knit the 8 stitches of the 2nd color, pass it round the next silk and
bring it forward; continue the same to the end of the row. Knit on in
the same manner for 14 rows, then to change the color take another ball
of your 2nd color and join it on at the beginning of your row, knit with
the 2nd color 1 stitch, pass the 1st color forward, knit 1 stitch with
the 2nd color, pass the 1st back, knit 1 with the 2nd, pass the 1st
forward, and the same for the 8 stitches. You will now find that you
have 2 threads of the 2nd color and 1 of the 1st together, pass 1 thread
of the 2nd color round the others and bring it forward, knit 1 stitch
with the 1st color, bring forward the other thread of the 2nd color,
knit 1 stitch with the 1st, pass the 2nd back, knit 1 with the 1st, and
continue the same for the rest of[60] the 8 stitches, when you will find 2
threads of the 1st color, and 1 of the 2nd together; twist and bring
forward 1 thread of the 1st color, and knit the others as you did those
of the 2nd color in the last square. Finish the row in this manner, then
knit as at first until another row of squares is completed; reverse the
color again.
This is a nice pattern for a carriage mat done with very large needles
and stout wool, and also for many other things, as from being neat on
both sides it does not require lining.
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