has been given to present this pattern in the original form.
is not responsible for errors.
Materials for one pair: 1/2 ounce red, 1/2 ounce white, Berlin
wool; steel knitting-needles.
This pretty boot consists of a shoe knitted in red wool, and a
sock in white wool ornamented with red. Begin the knitting with the
upper scalloped edge of the latter. Cast on 96 stitches with red
wool, divide them on four needles, and knit in rounds as
follows:--1st and 2nd rounds: With red wool, purled.
3rd to 8th round: With white wool.
3rd round: Knitted.
4th round: * Knit 4, throw the wool forward, knit 1,
throw the wool forward, knit 4, knit 3 together. Repeat 7 times
more from *.
5th round: Knitted; the stitches formed by throwing the
wool forward are knitted as one stitch. Knit 3 stitches together at
the place where 3 stitches were knitted together in the 4th round,
so that the decreasing of the preceding round forms the middle
stitch of the 3 stitches to be decreased in this round.
6th and 7th rounds: Like the 5th.
8th round: Knitted; you must have 48 stitches left.
9th to 11th round:With red wool.
9th round: Knitted.
10th and 11th rounds: Purled.
12th to 30th round: With white wool.
12th round: Knitted.
13th round to 30th round: Alternately purl 1, knit 1,
inserting the needle in the back part of the stitch.
31st to 33rd round: With red wool.
31st round: Knitted.
32nd round and 33rd round: Purled.
34th and 35th rounds: With white wool.
34th round: Knitted.
35th round: Alternately throw the wool forward, knit 2
together. Each stitch formed by throwing the wool forward is
knitted as one stitch in the next round.
36th to 38th round: With red wool.
36th round: Knitted.
37th and 38th rounds: Purled.
39th to 47th round: With white wool. Alternately purl
1, slip 1, as if you were going to purl it; the wool must lie in
front of the slipped  stitch; in the following rounds take
care to purl the slipped stitches.
Take now 18 stitches for the front gored sock part (leave 30
stitches untouched), and work backwards and forwards with red
48th to 50th row: With red wool.
48th row: Knitted.
49th row: Purled.
50th row: Knitted.
51st to 85th row: With white wool in the pattern
described in the 39th round. But as you work backwards and forwards
you must alternately knit  and purl the stitches. Decrease 1
stitch at the beginning and at the end of the 84th and 85th rows;
decrease 1 stitch in the middle of the 85th row, so that the 85th
row has 13 stitches left. After this work with red wool.
86th row: Knitted.
87th row: Knit 1, purl 2, knit 1, purl 2, knit 1, purl
2, knit 1, purl 2, knit 1.
Repeat these last 2 rows 3 times more and knit plain to the
94th, decreasing one, however, on each side. Now work with the
whole number of stitches, taking up the selvedge stitches of the
gored part and dividing them with the 30 other stitches on four
needles. Knit once more in rounds; the next 20 rounds are
alternately 1 round knitted, 1 round purled. In the 2 last knitted
rounds decrease twice close together in the middle of the back part
of the shoe. Knit 8 rounds; in every other round decrease twice in
the middle of the front of the shoe, leaving 9 stitches between the
two decreasings. The number of stitches between the decreasings
decreases with every round, so that the decreasings form slanting
lines meeting in a point. Cast off after these 8 rounds, by
knitting together 2 opposite stitches on the wrong side. The sock
part is edged with a raised red border, which is worked by taking
all the red stitches of the 1st round of the shoe on the needle and
knitting 4 rounds, so as to leave the purled side of the stitch
always outside; then cast off very tight. Draw a piece of braid
through the open-work row in the sock part, and finish it off at
either end with tassels to match.
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