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Free Vintage Knitting Pattern:

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Children's Knitted Set No. 2

(from Handbook of Wool Knitting and Crochet, 1918)

(Explanation of terms and stitches used)

 Hood/Hat  and Jacket/Sweater

Set No. 2 Set No. 2

Jacket.—Cast on 52 stitches and knit 60 rows or 30 ribs; cast on 26 stitches for sleeve, knit back and cast on 26 stitches for the other sleeve. Knit 34 rows, then knit 43 stitches, bind off 18 stitches for the neck, knit remaining 43 stitches, and on these continue with the front. Knit 6 rows, then continue knitting back and forth, adding a stitch at the end of each row toward the front for 22 rows, which will give 11 extra stitches; knit 6 rows without widening, then bind off 26 stitches, and knit remainder of front to correspond with the back.

Knit the other front in same way, sew up sleeves and underarm seams, work around the neck with double crochet, in color, 1 chain between, and around the body of the jacket with shells of three trebles in a stitch, miss space of two ribs; repeat. With the gray make 2 trebles, picot of 3 chain caught in last treble and 1 treble around neck, and between 1st and 2d trebles of shells around body of jacket. Finish edge of sleeves in the same way, and run in cord and balls.

For the Hood.—Cast on 64 stitches, knit 28 ribs, then 2 ribs of color and 2 of gray; bind off, sew up the back of hood where cast on, finish around the neck with double crochet, space of 2 chain between, using color, work the shells around front of hood, and finish with the shells of gray, as for jacket. Run in the cord, with balls of the two colors of yarn.

The cords may be done in plain crochet, the ordinary chain or, as preferred because stronger, knotted by what is called the "fool's delight" method, although why named thus it is impossible to say. Surely it seems a very sensible way: Take a length of yarn six times as long as the cord is wanted; make a slip or half knot at one end and pass the other end down through it to form a loop, then tie the ends of yarn together. Hold this knot between thumb and forefinger of one hand, say the right, with the yarn which pulls through the knot under the same hand, and the loop which was formed held on the forefinger; hold the yarn which does not pull in the left hand, pass the forefinger of the left hand through the loop on right forefinger from front to back, catch up and pull through the non-pulling or left-hand thread—exactly as you would make a chain-stitch in crochet—transfer the knot (which ties the two ends together) to the thumb and forefinger of left hand, keeping the loop over forefinger, and draw up the pulling yarn. Now the position of the loop, pulling yarn and knot is exactly the same in the left hand as formerly in the right. Continue by passing the forefinger of right hand through the loop, catching up the non-pulling thread and drawing it through to form the new loop (on right hand again), transfer the knot and pull up. This is really a sort of double chain, and when one has learned to make it evenly and well, it will be found superior for bags, lingerie, and many other articles requiring a drawstring or cord.



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