has been given to present these embroidery stitches in the original form.
is not responsible for errors.
ILLUSTRATION 66 shows how to prepare a scallop. Take thicker
cotton than that with which you work; never commence with a knot,
and do not take a thread longer than sixteen or eighteen inches.
The outlines of the scallops are first traced with short straight
stitches. In the corners particularly the stitches must be short.
The space between the outlines is filled with chain stitches, as
can be seen from illustration; they must not be too long, otherwise
the embroidery will look coarse. It is in this way that every
pattern to be worked in button-hole or satin stitch is to be
ILLUSTRATION 67 shows the double overcast stitch or button-hole
stitch in a straight line. After having traced the outline begin to
work from left to right; fasten the cotton with a few stitches,
hold it with the thumb of the left hand under the outline, insert
the needle downwards above the outline, draw it out under the same
above the cotton which you hold in the left hand, and draw it up.
Repeat for all the stitches in the same manner; they must be
regular and lie close to one another. Great care should be taken
that the material on which you embroider is not puckered.
ILLUSTRATION 68 (Overcast Stitch).--The double overcast
and the button-hole stitches are worked from left to right, whilst
back stitches, knotted and satin stitches are worked from right to
left. The stitch is worked in the same way as the double overcast,
only the needle must never be drawn out above, but
below, the cotton with which you work, and which you keep
down with the thumb of the left hand.
ILLUSTRATION 69.--The slanting overcast stitch is worked without
tracing the outline, always inserting the needle downwards--that
is, from top to bottom. The needle must be inserted in the manner
shown in illustration--that is, not straight, but slanting; insert
it a little farther than the last stitch, and draw it out close to
it. The wrong side of the work must show back stitches. This sort
of stitch is used for the fine outlines in patterns or letter.
ILLUSTRATION 70.--This shows the back stitch, the working of
which is well known; it is worked in several rows close to each
ILLUSTRATIONS 71 & 72 show another kind of back stitch,
called point croisé, which is only used on very
thin and transparent materials. This stitch forms on the wrong side
a sort of darned pattern, which is seen by transparence on the
right side, and gives the embroidered pattern a thicker appearance,
contrasting with the rest of the work (see the lower leaves of the
flower on illustration 110). For this
stitch insert the needle into the material as for the common back
stitch, draw it out underneath the needle on the opposite outline
of the pattern, so as to form on the wrong side a slanting line.
Insert the needle again as for common back stitch; draw it out
slanting at the place marked for the next stitch on the opposite
outline, as shown in illustration 71.
ILLUSTRATION 73 shows the knotted stitch; the simplest way of
working it is to work two back stitches at a short distance from
each other over the same thread.
The knotted stitch seen in ILLUSTRATION 74 is worked thus:--Take
about four threads of the material on the needle, draw the needle
half out, wind the cotton twice round the point of the needle, hold
it tight with the thumb, draw the needle out carefully and insert
it at the place where the stitch was begun, and draw it out at the
place where the next stitch is to be worked.
The knotted stitch seen on ILLUSTRATION 75 is worked in nearly
the same manner as the preceding one. Before drawing the cotton out
of the material hold it tight with the left-hand thumb; leave the
needle in the same position, wind the cotton twice round it, turn
the needle from left to right, so (follow the direction of the
arrow) that its point arrives where the cotton was drawn out
(marked by a cross in illustration), insert the needle there, and
draw it out at the place of the next stitch.
ILLUSTRATIONS 76 & 77.--Raised satin stitch is principally
used for blossoms, flowers, leaves, letters, &c.c. After having
traced the outlines of the pattern, fill the space left between
them with chain stitches in a direction different from that in
which the pattern is to be embroidered; begin at the point of the
leaf, working from right to left, make short straight stitches,
always inserting the needle close above the outline and drawing it
out below. The leaves on the flowers, as well as on the branches,
must be begun from the point, because they thus acquire a better
shape. If you wish to work a leaf divided in the middle, as seen in
illustration 77, you must trace the veining before you fill it with
chain stitches, then begin at one point of the leaf and work first
one half and then the other.
ILLUSTRATION 78 shows the so-called point de plume on a
scalloped leaf. It is worked like the satin stitch, only the needle
is drawn through the material in a slanting direction.
ILLUSTRATION 79 (Point de Minute).--This stitch is
often used instead of satin stitch when the patterns must appear
raised. Wind the cotton several times round the point of the
needle, which is inserted into the material half its length (the
number of times the cotton is to be wound round the needle depends
on the length of the pattern), hold fast the windings with the
thumb of the left hand, draw the needle and the cotton through the
windings, insert the needle into the material at the same place,
and draw it out at the place where the next stitch is to begin.
ILLUSTRATIONS 80 & 81 show the ladder stitch, often
used in ornamental embroidery. Trace first the outlines as seen in
illustrations; mark also the cross stitches between the outlines,
so that the first touch the outlines only at both ends. The
outlines are embroidered in overcast stitch or double overcast; the
material is cut away underneath the ladder stitch between the
We have now shown the different kinds of stitches used in
embroidery; the following illustrations show them used for
different patterns here.
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