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All care
has been given to present this explanation of various terms and
additional instructions in the original form.
KnitHeaven
is not responsible for errors.
EXPLANATION OF THE VARIOUS TERMS USED IN CROCHET.
CHAIN-STITCH OPEN CROCHET.—This consists of five or any uneven number
of loops attached by a plain stitch to every third stitch of the
foundation, and in the succeeding rows to the centre loop of the chain
of previous row.
THREE CHAIN CROCHET.—Work a chain of three loops as in chain-stitch
open crochet.
DOUBLE CROCHET.—Work as follows: having made a chain, pass the needle
through the first loop on the chain, draw the cotton through the loop,
there will now be two loops on the needle, through these draw the
cotton.
SINGLE CROCHET.—Insert the needle in the loops, and draw the cotton
through this loop and that on the needle.
RIBBED CROCHET.—This is worked in a similar manner to double crochet,
only that the under loop of the previous row is taken, and it is done in
rows to and fro.
LONG STITCH.—Twist the cotton round the needle, pass it through the
loop, draw the cotton through the first two loops on the needle, then
catch the cotton again and draw it through the next two loops; there
will be one loop left on the needle.
DOUBLE LONG STITCH.—This resembles long stitch, excepting that the
cotton is twisted twice round the needle.
TREBLE LONG STITCH.—Twist the cotton three times round the needle.
SINGLE OPEN CROCHET.—This is a succession of long stitches, with a
chain-stitch between each, missing one stitch of the foundation; in the
succeeding rows the long stitch is worked between the two long stitches
of the preceding rows.
DOUBLE OPEN CROCHET.—This consists of two long stitches, then two
chain-stitches; or it may be varied by making one long stitch, two
chain-stitches, missing the same number of stitches in foundation as
there are chain-stitches.
TREBLE OPEN CROCHET.—Work three long stitches, then three chain,
missing three of the foundation.
VANDYKE OPEN CROCHET.—Work three long stitches into one of the
foundation, make one chain-stitch, miss three of the foundation; repeat.
In the next and following rows the long stitches are worked in the
chain-stitch.
Additional Crochet
Instructions & terms:
The stitches used in crochet are, chain, slip, single, double,
treble, and long treble crochet.
TO MAKE A CHAIN, form a loop on the thread, insert the hook in it, and
draw the thread in another loop through this. Continue this to form a
succession of stitches.
SLIP-STITCH is made by drawing a thread at once through any given
stitch and the loop which is on the needle.
SINGLE CROCHET (written s.c.)—Having a loop on the needle, insert the
hook in a stitch, and draw the thread through in a loop. You then have
two on the hook; draw the thread through both at once.
DOUBLE CROCHET (d.c.)—Twist the thread round the hook before
inserting it in the stitch, through which you draw the thread in a
loop. Three loops being then on the needle, draw the thread through
two, and then through the one just formed and the remaining one.
TREBLE CROCHET (t.c.) and LONG TREBLE (long t.c.) are worked in the
same manner; in the former the thread is put twice, in the latter
three times, round the hook, before inserting it into the stitch.
TO JOIN LEAVES.—When one part of a leaf, flower, etc., is to be
joined to another, drop the loop from your hook, which insert in the
place to be joined; draw the loop through and continue working.
TO PASS FROM ONE ROUND TO ANOTHER WITHOUT BREAKING THE THREAD.—In
working mats and many similar articles this is very desirable. Having
finished one round, see whether a s.c., d.c., or t.c. stitch begins
the next; for s.c. make one chain, for d.c. three, for t.c. four; slip
the needle out, and twist the chain, then continue working. This
twisted chain will have all the appearance of a d.c. or t.c. stitch.
Should the round not begin exactly in the same place, slip-stitch to
the part where it commences, as it will seldom be more than a few
stitches in advance.
SQUARE CROCHET is a term often used, and generally understood, as the
engraved patterns are mostly in it. Lest, however, any of our readers
should not be familiar with the name, we will explain it. The squares
are either open or close. An open square consists of one d.c., two
ch.—missing two on the line beneath, before making the next stitch. A
close square has three successive d.c. Thus, any given number of close
squares, followed by an open, will have so many times three d.c., and
one over; and any foundation made for a pattern to be worked in
square crochet will have a number of chains divisible by three,
leaving one over.
TO CONTRACT AN EDGE.—In forming leaves and many other things, this is
very useful. It can be done in d.c., t.c., or long t.c. Having twisted
the thread round the needle as often as the stitch may require, insert
it in the work, and half-do a stitch. Instead of completing it, again
twist the thread round, until the same number of loops are on, and
work a stitch completely. Thus, for two stitches taken in the work,
there is only one head. This being successively repeated materially
contracts an edge.
TO JOIN ON A THREAD.—Avoid joins in open work as much as possible. In
close work, whether d.c. or s.c., they will not be perceived. Finish
the stitch by drawing the new thread through, allowing a couple of
inches for both ends, which you hold in.
TO WORK WITH SEVERAL COLOURS.—Hold the threads not in use along the
edge of the work, and work them in. When the colour is to be changed,
begin the stitch with the old colour, and complete it with the new,
which continue to work with, holding the other in. If only one stitch
of a colour is to be used, you finish one stitch, and begin the next
with it; then change. Colours are seldom intermixed, except in solid
work, such as the ends of purses, mats worked over cord, and the like.
TO WORK OVER CORD.—Hold it in the left hand, with the work, and work
round it, as you would if it were merely an end of thread. The
stitches must, however, be sufficiently close to cover it entirely.
TO WORK WITH BEADS.—Beads must be first threaded on the silk, or
other material, and then dropped, according to the pattern, on what is
usually thought the wrong side of the work. This side presents a more
even appearance than the other. It follows that when bead purses are
worked from an engraving, they are worked the reverse of the usual
way—namely, from right to left.
THE MARKS USED IN CROCHET RECEIPTS.—These are very simple when
understood. They are printers' marks—asterisks, crosses, daggers, and
sometimes one or two others. They are used to mark repetitions, and
save space. The principal thing to observe is, that in every row or
round, if one of any kind is used, a second, similar one, is sure
to be found; and that the repetition occurs between the two, however
far distant apart. Suppose a row of a pattern to be written thus:—X 2
d.c., 4 ch., miss 4, * 5 d.c., 1 ch., miss 1, * three times, 5 d.c.,
X, * twice; it would, at full length, be—2 d.c., 4 ch., miss 4, 5
d.c., 1 ch., miss 1, 5 d.c., 1 ch., miss 1, 5 d.c., 1 ch., miss 1, 5
d.c., 2 d.c., 4 ch., miss 4, 5 d.c., 1 ch., miss 1, 5 d.c., 1 ch.,
miss 1, 5 d.c., 1 ch., miss 1, 5 d.c. It will be seen that one
repetition often occurs within another, as in the stitches between
the asterisks. Another mode of shortening receipts can be used only
where a row has a centre both sides of which correspond; the latter
being the same as the former, worked backwards. Then the letters b,
a, are used, to mark that in the latter part of the row you reverse
the instructions. b, 7 d.c., 3 ch., miss 2, 1 d.c., 2 ch., miss 1,
a, 1 d.c. (the centre stitch), would be, 7 d.c., 3 ch., miss 2, 1
d.c., 2 ch., miss 1, 1 d.c., miss 1, 2 ch., 1 d.c., miss 2, 3 ch., 7
d.c. These letters and the printers' marks are equally used in
knitting. It is easy to see how much space is gained by the use of
these abbreviations, a knowledge of which is easily acquired. Probably
many of our friends are already familiar with the substance of this
preliminary lesson; but as daily experience convinces us that many are
still ignorant of the principles of crochet, we trust the good-nature
of the adepts will lead them to excuse this occupation of a page, in
consideration of the benefit it will be to their less fortunate
friends.
One word on the implement termed a crochet-hook. It should not be
sharp or pointed, either in the point or barb, but smooth, and quite
free from any angularity that can catch the silk. Cheap and common
crochet-hooks are in the end the dearest, as they break cotton, ravel
silk, wear out the patience, and prick the finger. They should be of
the best steel, highly polished, and firmly fixed in ivory handles.
Those we use have been made at our recommendation, and have the size
engraved on every handle. This saves the tiresome and uncertain
reference to a gauge. These hooks are termed "tapered, indented"
crochet-hooks.
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